Authentic Full Tang Katana Sword - Hand Forged Manganese Steel Samurai Sword with Purple Scabbard | Japanese Martial Arts, Cosplay, and Collectible Display

Purple Flame Hamon Full Tang Sharp Katana Sword Each sword is individually handmade. This sword is a very good choice, for gifts, cutting practice, display, and collection. It's strong and sharp enough to slice paper and cut bamboo. Manganese Steel Blade With Bo-hiToughness bends 90 degrees without deformationThe blade body processed with baked blue process, purple flame hamonTsuba is made of Zinc alloy silver-platedWhite Synthetic Silk Cord Wrapped Handle with White Ray SkinHardwood lacquered scabbard with white synthetic silk sageoNo display stand along with Description Overall Length 103cm/40.6in Handle(tsuka) 26cm/10.24in Blade Length 70cm/27.6in Blade Width 3.2cm/1.26in Blade Thickness 0.7cm/0.28in Blade Material Manganese Steel Blade Edge Hardness 60(HRC) Fittings Alloy Ito & Sageo Synthetic Silk Saya Hardwood lacquered wrapped with brushed pattern leather Polishing Craft Hand polished, hand sharpened Reminder No display stand along with Full Handmade Katana Sword The katana sword is made of Manganese steel. It has a toughness of bends 90 degrees without deformation. Full handmade katana, The hardness is 60 HRC. The blade body processed with the baked blue process, creates a unique purple flame Hamon. There is one long Bo Hi on each side which is from habaki to yokote. Alloy Fittings Tsuba is made of Zinc alloy silver-plated, beautifully carved. The Fuchi(sleeve) and Kashira(buttcap) are also made of zinc alloy. Tsuka-ito Handle The wood tsuka(handle) has tight handle wrapping which using white synthetic silk ito over white ray skin samegawa. Two menukis under the tsuka-ito feel more natural and comfortable when the sword is held in the palm of their hand Substantial Scabbard Hardwood lacquered scabbard is wrapped with brushed pattern leather. The Sageo is made of white exquisite rope. Forming Swords can be shaped by a variety of metalworking techniques.The primary techniques are forging and stock removal. Forging uses heat to bring the material to a malleable state. The material is then hammered to shape, typically using hammer and anvil together with specialized set and fuller tools depending on the particular technique. Stock removal shapes the sword from prepared stock that is larger in all dimensions than the finished sword by filing, grinding and cutting. Quenching After the blade has been shaped, the sword would be quenched. We quench our swords in either water or oil. Water quenching produces a tougher edge which can also be hardened further more using clay. Blades quenched in oil are still considerably hardened and do have superior flexibility compared to a water quenched blade. The more rapidly a blade cools down, the harder it becomes. Thus, when a hot blade enters the water, the water also gains heat and the blade will cool more gradually. Therefore, the first part of the blade that enters the water will be the hardest. After quenching, the sword will be quite tough and brittle, with little flexibility. To overcome this, the blade would undergo a tempering process. The blade would be reheated to a certain temperature degree then allowed to cool naturally. The blade would be slightly less tough afterward but have a greater degree of flexibility – the art would be to perfectly balance the blade for toughness, sharpness and flexibility. Modifying Shape + Finishing When the rough blade is completed, the sword smith turns the blade over to a polisher, whose job it is to refine the shape of a blade and improve its aesthetic value. The polishing process almost always takes longer than even crafting, and a good polish can greatly improve the beauty of a blade, while a bad one can ruin the best of blades. On high quality blades, only the back of the blade and the adjacent sides, are polished to a mirror-like surface. To bring out the grain and hamon, the center portion of the blade, and the edge are usually given a matte finish. Microscopic scratches in the surface vary, depending on hardness. Smaller but more numerous scratches in the harder areas reflect light differently from the deeper, longer scratches in the softer areas. The harder metal appears more matte than the softer, and the manner in which it scatters light is less affected by the direction of the lighting.